The article was written by Tina Zorman for
Yemen Observer and first published in Yemen Observer on Aug 8, 2012:
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http://www.yobserver.com/photo-gallery/10022209.html
Beyt Bouss village, lying on a rocky stair, overlooking Sana’a
Beyt
Bouss village is one of the four villages which lie on the
rocky ring, south of the capital Sana’a. Many foreigners do not know two of
them, Beyt Zapatan and Sana’s village; while everybody has heard of Hadda
village and Beyt Bouss village, as southern districts of Sana’a are called
after them.
It’s easy to come to Beyt Bouss since it is only
7 km from Tahreer. After coming from Sabaeen (70 Street), you simply turn left
on 50 Street and head down. There is nothing interesting in Beyt Bouss area
along the 50 Street apart from construction sites and rubbles. However, there
is a place that you should not miss. On the rocky stair, right under the
mountain, lies the old village of Beyt Bouss. If you tell Yemenis that you are
from Beyt Bouss, they will tell you: “Ah, so you are from the Jewish village!”
Actually too many of them think that Beyt Bouss
was a Jewish settlement. Well, they are right in a way, but it was not
precisely like that.
Till the mid twentieth century, tens of thousands of Jews were living in Yemen.
According to the tradition, Jewish people inhabited Yemen since 10 BC right
around the time when Queen Bilquis, the famous Queen of the Sabean Kingdom paid
a visit to King Solomon in Jerusalem.
After the destruction of the Solomon’s temple many Jews escaped and followed
Queen Bilquis back to her country – modern Southern Arabia - where they were
promised shelter and peace.
The Yemeni diaspora dates back from the time of the early prophets. On the
other “rive” of the Red Sea, in Ethiopia, legend has it that there too Jews
came to settle, having followed Menelik – Solomon and Bilquis’ son - Yemeni
Jews often proudly say that they are actually the descendant of the real Jews,
arguing that their ancestry dates back from the Torah – Jewish Scriptures –
where both the ancient cities of Sana’a and Sa’ada are mentioned by their old
names.
After Palestine was self-proclaimed the state of Israel by Jewish settlers’
in1948, most of Yemen’s Jews left the country, dreaming of a state of their own
and the so-called “promise land”. But if Yemen’s Jews live many ups and downs
throughout History, always was their journey intertwined with that of Yemen’s
Muslim community. For centuries, the most unlikely cousins lived, worked and
prosper side by side.
A side view of Beyt Bouss village that you would have, if you would reach it by a local’s path
Even today, Jews are still befriending Muslims, having
become an inherent part of the Yemeni society. After several mass migrations,
only a few hundreds Jews are nowadays living in Yemen. Beyt Bouss is actually a very particular and striking example of just
how much Muslims and Jews used to support each other and respect each other
traditions, in harmony without prejudice or hatred. As the old Yemeni proverb goes: Al Boussy Yahoody wa Yahoody al Boussy
–villagers of Beyt Bouss are the Jews and the Jews are Beyt Bouss villagers - Like in many other
places in Yemen, there were Muslims and Jewish living in Beyt Bouss. According
to tradition both communities lived however in very distinct areas, coexisting
but never truly blending in.
While
Muslims were housed within the walls of the main village, the Jewish community
had settled on its outskirts, right outside the walls. At the time –some 200
years ago – Sheikh Ali Mohsen al-Hawlani, ancestor to the Mugalli family in
Beyt Bouss, stroked a deal with the Jewish community.
Then, a village called Beyt al-Mahfad, was often complaining that sheep
belonging to the Jewish community were illegally grazing on their lands,
damaging their crops. In order to prevent a full blown tribal conflict Sheikh
al-Hawlani had often to mediate a peaceful settlement – offering a cow or money
as compensation – Since money at that time was somewhat of a rare commodity,
Beyt Bouss villagers were always asked to pinch in and cover the amount through
donations as the Jews could not come up with the full amount. After the same
issues repeated itself several times, the Beyt Bouss Sheikh, who fully
understood that the Jews were as much a part of his community as his fellow
Muslims decided to make them a fully-pledged members of Beyt Bouss, asking them
to as well participate when Muslim families were in need of the community,
through payments in kinds and money.
Beyt Bouss became one united-multi-cultural and religious community. Since that
very day, Jews and Muslims have lived as brothers in Beyt Bouss sharing through
the hard and good times, always lending each other a hand when needed.
A
water tank in Beyt Bouss, lying out of the ancient wall, separating the part
where Muslim community has lived from the part where Jewish community has
settled. Behind the water tank there are some of the houses where Jews have
lived.
Visiting Beyt Bouss
As
mentioned before, Beyt Bouss today is situated in the southern part of Sana’a.
From 50 Street, you can drive up to Beyt Bouss quite easily since the road has
been paved! You will park your car on the stone plateau, just behind the actual
village.
If arriving on a Friday afternoon, you will hardly find a place to park, as
many Boussy people will arrive with their Land Cruisers and chew Qat for hours
on end, leaving you stranded. The beautiful point of view is much praise by
locals and is most definitely worth the peak.
A stone arched entrance to the Beyt Bouss village
The path that leads to the village has been elegantly stone paved a few years ago. On your right you will see a big water tank that was once the village’s main reservoir. You will enter the settlement through the stone arch, which has been preserved, unlike the village former defense system, its wall. If you have a look to your right, you will see a small settlement lying under the rock, where was the ancient Jewish settlement.
In the past, here was a small market area of the village
There are still remains of the modest synagogue.
The village is alive today, but the inhabitants are not Jewish of course – all
are but gone. Destitute people from Haima tribe entered the houses and are now
living there. When entering the village you will pass a modest, but lovely
mosque, serving for the few families that still live inside old Beyt Bouss
village. The owners of the castle houses all live in their new houses, down,
along the 50 Street. From the castle you will have a great look over the Nahdeyn
Mountains right through the Nation's Mosque (before being called Presidential Mosque) in Sabaeen Square.
A view from the northern side of the village that overlooks Sana’a. All
the area south from “The breasts” mountains, is nowadays Beyt Bouss area,
crossed by 50 Street.
You can enter some of the stone
houses; local kids will tell you which one is safe enough to climb in. The
remains of the kitchens and storage rooms are well seen. Another approach to
Beyt Bouss village is to walk from new Beyt Bouss area up to the castle. The
easiest is to first come to Beyt Bouss cemetery and then head further. Maybe
ask the local boys and they will happily show you the way up. You will walk
along the small stony path, between the cactus trees and in 5-10 min will
arrive to the top.
From
there you will have a nice view over Beyt Bouss dam and the lake behind. If you
want to see tribal men in their best clothes and jambiyas, you don’t need to go
to Wadi Dhar but instead come on Friday morning to the Beyt Bouss dam.
At Eternal Yemen, tour operator, we can organize a trip to Beyt Bouss at any moment. The excursion can be combined with other activities, such as trekking, having traditional lunch or visiting other attractions like the new mosque etc. Contact us for all the informations !
Each Friday several Yemeni families pay a visit to the Beyt Bouss dam.
The men are usually dressed in traditional Yemeni outfit, with long, white robe
called zanna, a shawl, a suit, and with
mandatory curved Yemeni dagger called jambiya.
Author of the text and photographer: Tina Zorman, Eternal
Yemen tour and travel operator
